Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia - An Unworldly World

We took a long bus ride from Sucre to Potosi (the highest city in the world) but didn't stop there as there

was nothing but a mine that tourists can visit.  We have claustrophobia and didn't think it would be the best idea especially at our old age.

Anyhow, we went from Potosi to Uyuni, which was a complete shit hole.  There was absolutely nothing there.  We stayed at one of the most expensive places and the walls were dirty, there were hair and yellow marks on the floor etc...it was more like having a public loo in our bedroom.  Also, the whole town didn't have electricity until like 8pm so we just stayed in our smelly room to play cards.  In my opinion, it is not worth it to stay more than one night in Uyuni.  The only reason we were there was because we wanted to do the 3-day Salar de Uyuni Tour.

After a month of trekking, it was nice to be able to sit in a 4x4 and just relax, take photos and get driven to places.  In the 3 days, we visited the Train Cemetery which was just an area with parts of rusted trains but it was fun to see, the Colchani Town for a bit of shopping, all the different lagoons (red, green, white etc), greysers which was really cool, hot springs (we didn't go in because it was too cold and we couldn't be bothered to change haha...), the famous Arbol de Piedra (the stone tree) and of course, the Salar de Uyuni.

The Salar de Uyuni is the largest salt flats in the world.  It is an unworldly world.  When we went, it was too wet to drive through to the Fish Island but not wet enough to see the whole place in reflection which kind of sucks. Nevertheless, it was an unreal experience.  The salt mounts were really cool, the little reflections we saw were unreal, the sky was crystal clear and it was just a unique experience to pick up a lump of salt from the ground and stick it in your mouth!!!  Like Machu Picchu, pictures cannot do it justice, you have to see it with your own eyes!

On the way, we also saw llamas, vicuñas (funny looking deers), flamingos, vizcachas (wild desert rabbit) and foxes (one got really close to me which was real cool).  The scenery was just amazing - beautiful valleys, colorful desert, stunning rock formations and so on.

The only negative thing about Uyuni and the 3-day trip was that it was bloody freezing.  It was COLD but well worth it because the whole experience was unique and it was an easy way for us to end our trip in San Pedro de Atacama in Chile.  We got a post-dated stamp from the Bolivian immigration back in Uyuni and it took about 5 seconds.  So when we crossed the Bolivia-Chile border, it was really easy.

We are now in San Pedro and the 6,006m Mount Sairecabur is our ultimate goal!!!

Sucre - the White City of Bolivia

Sucre, the White City of Bolivia. It´s a pretty little city, with lovely white and historical buildings.  It´s so different from La Paz, from people, to structures to what to do...

The rocks of Cal Orck'o (dinosaur footprints) date back to about 68 million years.  Although we couldn´t see the footprints up close, it was just incredible to see them.  We also visited the Casa de la Libertad, the famous Chapel of the Virgen de Guadalupe (which was painted in 1601 and covered with jewels), the Cathedral and the local markets for delicious local food.

You can pretty much stroll around the city aimlessly because it´s just so pretty and the people are really friendly.

Then, we did a 2-day Maragua Crater Trek with Condor Trekkers which was excellent.  The scenery was stunning, the trek was really fun as you get the river, stone, mud, sand and the whole package!  Also, the trek goes up and down, up and down so you never feel bored. 

We were close to doing the 3-day trek because it´s the same as the 2-day trek except that you also get to visit the dinosaur prints UP CLOSE!  Unlike in the city, where you can only look at it from far away, apparently you can literally sit in the dinosaur print!!!  However, you have to carry your own bag, like sleeping bag, tent, food, snack, clothes (it´s cold) etc...and you can´t hire a donkey, thus, in the end, we chose to do the 2-day trek instead.  But if you are fit enough, you should do the 3-day trek.  Where else in the world can you sit in a dinosaur footprint?

If you are in Sucre and want to do a trek, I highly recommend Condor Trekkers (http://www.condortrekkers.org/). It is a non-profit organization and all their proceeds support local children and communities in need.  They are well organized, the guides are very professional, the volunteers are fantastic, they feed you till you explode, they provide all equipments you need like backpacks, sleeping bags etc and it´s all included in the price already, no hidden costs.

It was really nice to see how our guide (Henry) gave snacks and stuff to little kids throughout our journey.  The experience was superb. It´s like doing a trek and giving to charity at the same time.  You won´t regret it, I promise.

One other thing, it was rather unbelievable to learn that one of the villages we passed only had electricity in 2011!!! This is one of the reasons why I love traveling, it really makes you humble.  It reminds you how you shouldn´t take electricity, clean water, hot shower or a proper loo for granted.

I see so many kids here play with plastic bags and bottles from the streets...and at home in Hong Kong, many parents dress their kids in Ralph Lauren! It reminds me how lucky I am and that there is so much more to life than just money and climbing up the company ladder.

We will be heading off to Uyuni tomorrow, it´s going to be amazing!!! I can´t wait.

La Paz and the Amazon Jungle, Bolivia

La Paz - the highest capital in the world, raised above 3,660m sea level - is a gorgeous city filled with historical buildings, rich culture, markets, indigenous people, colorful garments and much more.

As any tourist would, we visited the central plaza, Cathedral, saw the alpaca fetus and special herbs in the Witches Market etc...we were too chicken to visit the La Paz Prison or the "World´s Most Dangerous Road" (from La Cumbre to Coroico). I refused to mountain bike there as I believe my number is not up yet.

We bumped into a German family we met during the Colca Trek and had a nice dinner with them.  Then on May 5 2011, we flew to Rurrenabaque and took a 5 hour boat ride to Pampas, the first part of our Amazon Jungle adventure.

During the day, we went wildlife watching, we saw lots of things like squirrel / howler / night monkeys, black / spectacled caimans, snakes, capybaras (the largest rodents), turtles, squirrels, armadillos and lucky enough, we saw a SLOTH.  We went looking for anacondas and jaguars but were unsuccessful.  It´s like looking for a needle in a haystack.

In the afternoon, we swam with pink dolphins which was such a unique experience.  They come up and swim next to you, nibble on your toes or foot and play with you.  It was just an incredible experience.  Then at twilight, we went fishing for piranas (fish with crazy teeth), they were pretty scary but I was lucky enough to catch one haha...

At night, we took a boat ride in the river, and when our guide turned off the lights and engine, all that were there were you, the sound of the jungle and the starry night, which reminded me of Van Gogh´s famous painting.  It was truly a privilege to experience it.  No words or photos could do such moment justice.

We were in Pampas for 2 nights, before we headed off to Madidi, the second part of our Amazon Rainforest adventure. We stayed at a gorgeous lodge with friendly and professional stafff.  We saw walking trees, strangular fig (trees that kill trees), jaguar prints, red howler / cappuccino monkeys, taranchula, monkey frog, jungle papaya (pre-historic tree, it has thorns on its body to prevent dinosaurs from eating them, pretty cool), leaf cutter / bullet / fire ants, owl butterfly and so on...

We were REALLY lucky to see a giant ant-eater, wild pigs, a tucan (you can usually hear them but it´s hard to see them) and spider monkeys. 

The jungle experience was truly amazing.  Although we were bitten to bits, it was all worth it.  I think my hubby has over 100 bites on him...I probably have only 20 or so.

It was heart breaking to learn from our guide, whose grandfather and father also grew up in and around the jungle, that what we saw were only 50% of the Amazon rainforest, the rest were gone, destroyed by humans.  So many species scientists have yet to discover may never be discovered because their homes are, and will continued to be, destroyed.

So the next time you use a new sheet of paper, consider recycling.  You have to be there to see experience the magnificence of the Amazon Rainforest, I liked the starry night the best and swimming with pink dolphins was the second on the list.  I have seen the northern lights and it was nothing compared to being in the middle of the jungle, listening to the jungle, breathing the jungle, living the jungle and watching the starry sky.

I feel so privileged to experience all these and I wish whoever is reading this will have the opportunity to do so too.

Memories Can´t Be Stolen

We took an overnight bus from Arequipa to Puno which was bloody freezing.  We had no idea how cold it would be and were lucky to keep our toes!!!  Then we crossed the Bolivian border and arrived at Copacabana.

We were going to head off to Isle del Sol but while we were waiting for our ferry to go to the island, we had our bag stolen.

Clearly, we were shocked and very upset.  Initially, I thought it was the items that got stolen (our really good camera, iPad which was a gift, iPod, lenses, everything) that had upset me.  However, soon I realized it had little to do with the material of what had been stolen.

It was the emotional attachment and the fact that someone had taken something from you...stolen.  All the gagdets can be replaced and as long as my hubby and I are safe, nothing else really matters.

I was more upset over the photos we had taken during this travel...not alot, about 1,400.  But it was the sweat and effort taken to get these photos...from diving to 30m with hammerhead sharks to trekking to an altitude of 4,750m.  It was the experience, the soul and heart we have put in.

It took me TWO nights to fully recover.  The first night, I got over the material stuff.  The second night, I finally came to terms with the fact that yes, our photos were stolen, what has happened has happened and I was never going to get it back.  But one thing these bastards could never take away, was our memories.

Memories can´t be stolen. 

They will always be in our hearts.  Moreover, I received tons of twitter DMs, facebook message/comments and emails from my family and friends regarding their concern.

I was more emotional when I read these messages than when our stuff got stolen. 

People in Japan have lost their homes, EVERYTHING, so many people starve each day, sick kids never get the chance to travel and see the world etc...and here I was...worrying about a camera and some photos.

I guess only when shit happens, then you realize what you really have.  Nothing really matters, as long as you have still got your partner, family and friends. 

NOTHING ELSE MATTERS.

¨Don´t let the bastards keep you down¨- by Rihanna

They have taken little stuff and 2 days of my life and I am not going to let them take anything else from me / us.

Screw the bastards, I still hope they get run over by a bus or something and I´m not afraid to admit to my evil thoughts. 

We bought a new baby (old version, small and simple) camera yesterday and have began taking photos like a beast today!!! 

Memories can´t be stolen...it will always be in our hearts.

Arequipa - The White City

Arequipa is one of the prettiest cities I've ever seen - cobblestone streets, colonial buildings, historical sites, majestic mountains, stunning canyons, friendly locals and 'Zig Zag' the best cuisine in Peru (in my opinion).

We did the 2 day / 1 night Colca Trek. The Colca Canyon is the world's deepest canyon, after the Tsangpo in China. We saw a lot of massive condors - which has the largest wingspan (at 3.2 m or 10.5 ft) of any land bird, according to Wikipedia. They were just magnificent to watch.

As for the trek itself, the scenery was beautiful but the trek was average. We spent the first day walking on a really dusty trail and your face, nostrils, clothes are just covered in shit.

The second day was more fun. We started walking at 5am for 2 and a half hours, it was just a constant uphill of 1,200m. It was a bitch but like our previous tracks, it's very rewarding.

On our way back to Arequipa, we went to the hot springs which was much nicer than the ones in Aguas Calientes, as it's bigger, cleaner and quieter.

The next day, we just strolled around the beautiful city center of Arequipa. The gorgeous white Cathedral was worth a visit and you definitely don't want to miss the Monasterio de Santa Catalina, which is like a city within the city with houses, alleys and gardens inside the stoned walls.

We were going to do the Chachani trek, which is the world's easiest 6,000m trek and we were all psyched up for it all day and night. But in the end, the agency (most expensive in town) wasn't able to provide us with proper equipments (there were holes in the boots, paper thin jacket for the snow, 'ski pants' as thick as my hiking pants etc), so we cancelled and got a refund.

It sucks because we were so ready for it but shit happens. In the end, we treated ourselves to Zig Zag, the best restaurant in Peru! Ostrich carpaccio, excellent trilogy of meat (alpaca, beef and pork) and delicious passion fruit dessert.

Well, we have done everything we wanted to do in Peru, so we are heading off to Bolivia tonight, I have been snooping around peoples facebook photos of Bolivia and they look awesome!!! So I can't wait, although the night bus journey and getting through the Bolivian border will not be fun ;)

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