San Pedro de Atacama and Mount Sairecabur - The Hardest Thing I Have Ever Done

We just arrived Santiago last night (21 May 2011).

 It's so nice to be able to unpack and hang your clothes up for a few days, instead of living straight from your backpack.  Cable TV, hot shower that doesn't turn cold suddenly or simply stop functioning. 

I miss city life...

It's also good to catch our breaths as we had gotten to a point of our travels where we were just too exhausted to do anything.  When we were in San Pedro, we didn't do the Moon Valley, didn't see the geysers or lakes because after 3 days on the Uyuni 4x4 Tour, we had seen enough valleys, rocks and geysers!!

Not only that, we were too tired to do the stargazing which looking back, I don't regret not doing it but it would have been nice if we did.  Neither did we sandboard because all our energy were sucked out of us after we did the Mount Sairecabur trek, which was our ultimate 6,000m altitude goal.

If you have been keeping up with my blog, back in Arequipa in Peru, we were going to do the 'easiest' 6,000m altitude trek but the tour company couldn't provide us with the right equipments - jackets, snow boots etc...

So when we were in La Paz, I thought of doing it but since we just had our stuff stolen, I was in no mood to do anything challenging.  Then, I thought a lot about it in when we were in the Amazon Jungle and in Sucre.  All the 'what if...' and I hated it.

I hate regrets.  I rarely ever regret.  The Arequipa incident wasn't our fault but part of me still felt that something was missing.  So when I was reading up on San Pedro and found out that we could do a trek to Mount Sairecabur, which some say is 6,045m, and some say 6,006m, we decided straight away to do it.

It was something we had to do.  No considerations involved, no questions asked. 

Well, to sum it up, we DID NOT get to 6,000m but still, it was the hardest physical thing I have ever done. 

It was harder than the second day of my first trek in Huaraz (Peru), harder than the 2,500 steps up to Machu Picchu at 4am, and harder than the half marathon (21km) I did two years ago.

The weather was wild and unpredictable.  One moment, it's nice and cool, next moment, the wild wind just about blew our heads off.  It was cold, but that was the least of our problems.  At such high altitude, every step took huge efforts.  You would be walking like an old man and would have nothing on your mind but to try and breathe!!!

To make matters worse, there were snow so deep that you would take one step, have to lift your leg from the ditch, balance yourself with another and do the whole thing again until you get to an area with less snow.  Add to that, we were at about 5,000m above sea level.

Then, there's the ice.  Anyone who has walked on ice knows exactly what I am talking about.  Again, add to that, we were at about 5,000m above sea level PLUS we were walking UPHILL!!!

Anyhow, so finally, we got to 5,700m where we could clearly see the top, from there, you would think 'oh no worries, no matter how hard, I can make it.'

WRONG. 

The previous 4 and a half hour trek was a piece of cake compared to what was ahead of us.  It was strictly a 45° UPWARD...and we were not walking on ice or snow, we were CLIMBING on ALL FOURS (our hands, our legs) up a steep slope with unsteady rocks. It was like I was in a movie where every step I took, when I look down, I could see the rocks falling down the slope!!

It wasn't technical, no.  But if we fell, we would have terribly injured ourselves in the middle of nowhere.

Nevertheless, we continued our best to climb like our lives depended on it.  Then, one of the guys trekking with us got really sick from the altitude and started vomiting.  He got really dizzy and couldn't stand up at all. 

The rest of us were busy climbing upward and trying to breathe!  We didn't realize until our guide stopped us at 5,900m and that was when we were told that the peak we were staring at wasn't the top (6,000m) and that there was ANOTHER 2 hours to go after this initial peak, as we had to go down and then up again. 

I was like, what the fuck? We are at 5,900m and we have another TWO FUCKING HOURS???  Mind you, after trekking for 4 and a half hours at such extreme weather and condition, the sudden realization that you have another 2 hours to go was a big hit.  Especially when you thought you were about to cross the line!

But that wasn't why we didn't continue. Since we only had one guide, if we continued to go another 2 hours, we would have to descend a path different from the one we ascended from.  However, that sick guy COULD NOT even stand on his own, there was no way he could make it back to the van without us. 

In the end, we all had to leave, he had to be CARRIED by Rupert, our guide and a third guy because he could bearly walk. I think he was hospitalized after we parted.

So, we didn't get to the 6,000m we hoped we would but at the end of the day, we have tried our best and things happen.  It wasn't the sick guy's fault either.  It was just tough luck I guess.  But I don't regret it because I have already broken my own personal record.  I feel sorry for Rupert though but again, there was nothing we could do.

We tried our best and I have absolutely no regret now.  It was a day I would never forget because I have never put my life on something like that before.  It was probably the hardest thing I have ever done in my life, and probably one of the stupidest things too because of my own stubborness.

Anyhow, that's why we weren't able to do anything else in San Pedro.  Stargazing and sandboarding were at the bottom of our list.  However, San Pedro was a nice little place to chill...as long as you don't try to kill yourself like we did.

Having said that, during our stay at San Pedro, we managed to go cyclying in the Atacama Desert, the driest desert in the world.  It was really fun as it was the first time Rupert and I went cycling together.  Also, it was a bit like in Salar de Uyuni in which it was really unworldly.  It was like we were cycling on MARS!!! You see no one, you hear nothing but just you and the crazy red rock or sand formation around you...like somewhere Superman lives!

Nevertheless, I didn't think I would live the day to say this but traveling can be quite tiring.  So we look forward to taking things slowly in Santiago...just touristy stuff and probably wine tasting but nothing crazy.

Yet again, never let yourself regret about anything.  Sometimes, don't think.  JUST DO IT.

La Paz and the Amazon Jungle, Bolivia

La Paz - the highest capital in the world, raised above 3,660m sea level - is a gorgeous city filled with historical buildings, rich culture, markets, indigenous people, colorful garments and much more.

As any tourist would, we visited the central plaza, Cathedral, saw the alpaca fetus and special herbs in the Witches Market etc...we were too chicken to visit the La Paz Prison or the "World´s Most Dangerous Road" (from La Cumbre to Coroico). I refused to mountain bike there as I believe my number is not up yet.

We bumped into a German family we met during the Colca Trek and had a nice dinner with them.  Then on May 5 2011, we flew to Rurrenabaque and took a 5 hour boat ride to Pampas, the first part of our Amazon Jungle adventure.

During the day, we went wildlife watching, we saw lots of things like squirrel / howler / night monkeys, black / spectacled caimans, snakes, capybaras (the largest rodents), turtles, squirrels, armadillos and lucky enough, we saw a SLOTH.  We went looking for anacondas and jaguars but were unsuccessful.  It´s like looking for a needle in a haystack.

In the afternoon, we swam with pink dolphins which was such a unique experience.  They come up and swim next to you, nibble on your toes or foot and play with you.  It was just an incredible experience.  Then at twilight, we went fishing for piranas (fish with crazy teeth), they were pretty scary but I was lucky enough to catch one haha...

At night, we took a boat ride in the river, and when our guide turned off the lights and engine, all that were there were you, the sound of the jungle and the starry night, which reminded me of Van Gogh´s famous painting.  It was truly a privilege to experience it.  No words or photos could do such moment justice.

We were in Pampas for 2 nights, before we headed off to Madidi, the second part of our Amazon Rainforest adventure. We stayed at a gorgeous lodge with friendly and professional stafff.  We saw walking trees, strangular fig (trees that kill trees), jaguar prints, red howler / cappuccino monkeys, taranchula, monkey frog, jungle papaya (pre-historic tree, it has thorns on its body to prevent dinosaurs from eating them, pretty cool), leaf cutter / bullet / fire ants, owl butterfly and so on...

We were REALLY lucky to see a giant ant-eater, wild pigs, a tucan (you can usually hear them but it´s hard to see them) and spider monkeys. 

The jungle experience was truly amazing.  Although we were bitten to bits, it was all worth it.  I think my hubby has over 100 bites on him...I probably have only 20 or so.

It was heart breaking to learn from our guide, whose grandfather and father also grew up in and around the jungle, that what we saw were only 50% of the Amazon rainforest, the rest were gone, destroyed by humans.  So many species scientists have yet to discover may never be discovered because their homes are, and will continued to be, destroyed.

So the next time you use a new sheet of paper, consider recycling.  You have to be there to see experience the magnificence of the Amazon Rainforest, I liked the starry night the best and swimming with pink dolphins was the second on the list.  I have seen the northern lights and it was nothing compared to being in the middle of the jungle, listening to the jungle, breathing the jungle, living the jungle and watching the starry sky.

I feel so privileged to experience all these and I wish whoever is reading this will have the opportunity to do so too.

Arequipa - The White City

Arequipa is one of the prettiest cities I've ever seen - cobblestone streets, colonial buildings, historical sites, majestic mountains, stunning canyons, friendly locals and 'Zig Zag' the best cuisine in Peru (in my opinion).

We did the 2 day / 1 night Colca Trek. The Colca Canyon is the world's deepest canyon, after the Tsangpo in China. We saw a lot of massive condors - which has the largest wingspan (at 3.2 m or 10.5 ft) of any land bird, according to Wikipedia. They were just magnificent to watch.

As for the trek itself, the scenery was beautiful but the trek was average. We spent the first day walking on a really dusty trail and your face, nostrils, clothes are just covered in shit.

The second day was more fun. We started walking at 5am for 2 and a half hours, it was just a constant uphill of 1,200m. It was a bitch but like our previous tracks, it's very rewarding.

On our way back to Arequipa, we went to the hot springs which was much nicer than the ones in Aguas Calientes, as it's bigger, cleaner and quieter.

The next day, we just strolled around the beautiful city center of Arequipa. The gorgeous white Cathedral was worth a visit and you definitely don't want to miss the Monasterio de Santa Catalina, which is like a city within the city with houses, alleys and gardens inside the stoned walls.

We were going to do the Chachani trek, which is the world's easiest 6,000m trek and we were all psyched up for it all day and night. But in the end, the agency (most expensive in town) wasn't able to provide us with proper equipments (there were holes in the boots, paper thin jacket for the snow, 'ski pants' as thick as my hiking pants etc), so we cancelled and got a refund.

It sucks because we were so ready for it but shit happens. In the end, we treated ourselves to Zig Zag, the best restaurant in Peru! Ostrich carpaccio, excellent trilogy of meat (alpaca, beef and pork) and delicious passion fruit dessert.

Well, we have done everything we wanted to do in Peru, so we are heading off to Bolivia tonight, I have been snooping around peoples facebook photos of Bolivia and they look awesome!!! So I can't wait, although the night bus journey and getting through the Bolivian border will not be fun ;)

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Machu Picchu - The Lost City of the Incas

 

We flew into Cusco from Lima and did a day trip to the Sacred Valley before our 5-day trek to Machu Picchu.

On the first day, I underestimated what was waiting for me and I cursed through the 10-hour trek. I didn't take a single photo as I was just trying to make it to the camp in one piece!!! I finally calmed down when I started meeting other people from our group and I learnt to laugh again.

The second day, as expected, was a bitch! It was a constant uphill to 4,600m altitude. Again, I had no interest in the scenery until I reached the top alive. On my way back down, I realized I was surrounded by a beautiful scenery and I became stronger through the afternoon.

The third and fourth day were really easy, 5-hour trek each day. We ended the fourth day in Aguas Calientes where some of our group went to the hot spring which was pretty fun...and strange. Haha...everyone there probably hadn't had a bath for over 3 days but no one cared. It was a blast!

The fifth day was one of the most unforgettable days of my life. We got up at 4am and had to race up 2,500 steps (400m up) in order to get a pass to go to Wayna Picchu (there is a daily limit of only 200 people at 7am and 200 people at 10am).

It was harder than the previous 4-day treks and the 4,750m Santa Cruz trek because there was nothing other than darkness and 2 or 3 steps ahead of you. It was still dark and we had to trek with a head light. You know it's game over once you stop as there were tons of people behind you trying to get your spot.

I was really concerned with Rupert as he was really struggling. I, surprisingly, was getting stronger and stronger as we ascended. I still don't understand how I did it but I'm very proud of myself for achieving this.

I had tears in my eyes when we reached the top and were one of the first 200 to be there. I never thought I would make it and this had made me believe in myself more.

Machu Picchu was stunning. It's located in the middle of nowhere and its magnificent stonework and craftsmanship were just unreal. It was worth the all the hardwork, tears and sweat. No words or pictures can describe Machu Picchu. You have to be there to experience it. The Lost City of the Incas should lives up to it's title as the New Seven Wonders of the World.

To top such crazy day up, we went back in town only to realize our agency hadn't reserve Rup and my train ticket. No one know who to call to solve the problem and we were really stressed out!!! What made things worse was no one spoke English and no one gave a shit.

Thanks to my 3 angels - Menno, Tobias and Sven - who helped us translate, ran around from hostal to hostal and to the train station with their bloody backpacks! Somehow, we finally were able to get on a later train on the same night.

Thus, all in all, the 5-day trek to Machu Picchu was very adventurous, fun, challenging and rewarding. It was one of the most memorable experience of my life.

Huaraz, Peru - Trekking to 4,750m alttitude

The first day in Huaraz, we visited Chavin, a 3,000-year-old temple next to a small village. It's an impressive temple built from stone with a maze of tunnels, chambers and alleys that you can explore (really cool stuff).

We rested for a day before we embarked on our 4-day Santa Cruz trek in the mountain range of Cordilleras Blanca, which is the second highest mountain range after the Himalayas.

Every day, we woke up at 6am and would start trekking by 7am. It's the hardest thing I have ever done. I recently blogged about the hard work required for surfing, well it's nothing comparing to trekking to 4,750m altitude.

It's one of the best things I have ever done in my life.

I was worried about not being able to shower or wash my hair fo 4 days, but that was the last thing on my mind. The weather was so unpredictable that one moment, it's sunny, another it's pouring, then it's hot, then it's cold.

You could be trekking in your T-shirt during the day and you would be sleeping with your ski pants, thermos, beanie, gloves and fleeces at night.

Every step upward required so much strength and determination at such high altitude.

Breathing was one thing, hanging on to dear life was another. There were points when I thought I wasn't going to make it. But thanks to my husband who was my motivational angel and a great team of people we were trekking with, I finally made it.

And once you open your eyes and see what's around you rather than worrying about a shower, the coldness and wetness, fatigue or having a congested nose, it was all worth it.

The beautiful scenery of snow capped mountains, icy water falls, bright and colorful flowers, horses eating grass next to you, cows and donkeys strolling around, gorgeous valleys, river, lakes, trekking on peddles, stones, grass and mud, was just unbelievable.

We saw the Artesonraju which was said to be the Paramount Picture logo! Now that's amazing in itself.

I'm very proud of myself for doing this 4-day trek to 4,750m altitude. It's one of my biggest achievements in life and something I will share with my children.