San Pedro de Atacama and Mount Sairecabur - The Hardest Thing I Have Ever Done

We just arrived Santiago last night (21 May 2011).

 It's so nice to be able to unpack and hang your clothes up for a few days, instead of living straight from your backpack.  Cable TV, hot shower that doesn't turn cold suddenly or simply stop functioning. 

I miss city life...

It's also good to catch our breaths as we had gotten to a point of our travels where we were just too exhausted to do anything.  When we were in San Pedro, we didn't do the Moon Valley, didn't see the geysers or lakes because after 3 days on the Uyuni 4x4 Tour, we had seen enough valleys, rocks and geysers!!

Not only that, we were too tired to do the stargazing which looking back, I don't regret not doing it but it would have been nice if we did.  Neither did we sandboard because all our energy were sucked out of us after we did the Mount Sairecabur trek, which was our ultimate 6,000m altitude goal.

If you have been keeping up with my blog, back in Arequipa in Peru, we were going to do the 'easiest' 6,000m altitude trek but the tour company couldn't provide us with the right equipments - jackets, snow boots etc...

So when we were in La Paz, I thought of doing it but since we just had our stuff stolen, I was in no mood to do anything challenging.  Then, I thought a lot about it in when we were in the Amazon Jungle and in Sucre.  All the 'what if...' and I hated it.

I hate regrets.  I rarely ever regret.  The Arequipa incident wasn't our fault but part of me still felt that something was missing.  So when I was reading up on San Pedro and found out that we could do a trek to Mount Sairecabur, which some say is 6,045m, and some say 6,006m, we decided straight away to do it.

It was something we had to do.  No considerations involved, no questions asked. 

Well, to sum it up, we DID NOT get to 6,000m but still, it was the hardest physical thing I have ever done. 

It was harder than the second day of my first trek in Huaraz (Peru), harder than the 2,500 steps up to Machu Picchu at 4am, and harder than the half marathon (21km) I did two years ago.

The weather was wild and unpredictable.  One moment, it's nice and cool, next moment, the wild wind just about blew our heads off.  It was cold, but that was the least of our problems.  At such high altitude, every step took huge efforts.  You would be walking like an old man and would have nothing on your mind but to try and breathe!!!

To make matters worse, there were snow so deep that you would take one step, have to lift your leg from the ditch, balance yourself with another and do the whole thing again until you get to an area with less snow.  Add to that, we were at about 5,000m above sea level.

Then, there's the ice.  Anyone who has walked on ice knows exactly what I am talking about.  Again, add to that, we were at about 5,000m above sea level PLUS we were walking UPHILL!!!

Anyhow, so finally, we got to 5,700m where we could clearly see the top, from there, you would think 'oh no worries, no matter how hard, I can make it.'

WRONG. 

The previous 4 and a half hour trek was a piece of cake compared to what was ahead of us.  It was strictly a 45° UPWARD...and we were not walking on ice or snow, we were CLIMBING on ALL FOURS (our hands, our legs) up a steep slope with unsteady rocks. It was like I was in a movie where every step I took, when I look down, I could see the rocks falling down the slope!!

It wasn't technical, no.  But if we fell, we would have terribly injured ourselves in the middle of nowhere.

Nevertheless, we continued our best to climb like our lives depended on it.  Then, one of the guys trekking with us got really sick from the altitude and started vomiting.  He got really dizzy and couldn't stand up at all. 

The rest of us were busy climbing upward and trying to breathe!  We didn't realize until our guide stopped us at 5,900m and that was when we were told that the peak we were staring at wasn't the top (6,000m) and that there was ANOTHER 2 hours to go after this initial peak, as we had to go down and then up again. 

I was like, what the fuck? We are at 5,900m and we have another TWO FUCKING HOURS???  Mind you, after trekking for 4 and a half hours at such extreme weather and condition, the sudden realization that you have another 2 hours to go was a big hit.  Especially when you thought you were about to cross the line!

But that wasn't why we didn't continue. Since we only had one guide, if we continued to go another 2 hours, we would have to descend a path different from the one we ascended from.  However, that sick guy COULD NOT even stand on his own, there was no way he could make it back to the van without us. 

In the end, we all had to leave, he had to be CARRIED by Rupert, our guide and a third guy because he could bearly walk. I think he was hospitalized after we parted.

So, we didn't get to the 6,000m we hoped we would but at the end of the day, we have tried our best and things happen.  It wasn't the sick guy's fault either.  It was just tough luck I guess.  But I don't regret it because I have already broken my own personal record.  I feel sorry for Rupert though but again, there was nothing we could do.

We tried our best and I have absolutely no regret now.  It was a day I would never forget because I have never put my life on something like that before.  It was probably the hardest thing I have ever done in my life, and probably one of the stupidest things too because of my own stubborness.

Anyhow, that's why we weren't able to do anything else in San Pedro.  Stargazing and sandboarding were at the bottom of our list.  However, San Pedro was a nice little place to chill...as long as you don't try to kill yourself like we did.

Having said that, during our stay at San Pedro, we managed to go cyclying in the Atacama Desert, the driest desert in the world.  It was really fun as it was the first time Rupert and I went cycling together.  Also, it was a bit like in Salar de Uyuni in which it was really unworldly.  It was like we were cycling on MARS!!! You see no one, you hear nothing but just you and the crazy red rock or sand formation around you...like somewhere Superman lives!

Nevertheless, I didn't think I would live the day to say this but traveling can be quite tiring.  So we look forward to taking things slowly in Santiago...just touristy stuff and probably wine tasting but nothing crazy.

Yet again, never let yourself regret about anything.  Sometimes, don't think.  JUST DO IT.

Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia - An Unworldly World

We took a long bus ride from Sucre to Potosi (the highest city in the world) but didn't stop there as there

was nothing but a mine that tourists can visit.  We have claustrophobia and didn't think it would be the best idea especially at our old age.

Anyhow, we went from Potosi to Uyuni, which was a complete shit hole.  There was absolutely nothing there.  We stayed at one of the most expensive places and the walls were dirty, there were hair and yellow marks on the floor etc...it was more like having a public loo in our bedroom.  Also, the whole town didn't have electricity until like 8pm so we just stayed in our smelly room to play cards.  In my opinion, it is not worth it to stay more than one night in Uyuni.  The only reason we were there was because we wanted to do the 3-day Salar de Uyuni Tour.

After a month of trekking, it was nice to be able to sit in a 4x4 and just relax, take photos and get driven to places.  In the 3 days, we visited the Train Cemetery which was just an area with parts of rusted trains but it was fun to see, the Colchani Town for a bit of shopping, all the different lagoons (red, green, white etc), greysers which was really cool, hot springs (we didn't go in because it was too cold and we couldn't be bothered to change haha...), the famous Arbol de Piedra (the stone tree) and of course, the Salar de Uyuni.

The Salar de Uyuni is the largest salt flats in the world.  It is an unworldly world.  When we went, it was too wet to drive through to the Fish Island but not wet enough to see the whole place in reflection which kind of sucks. Nevertheless, it was an unreal experience.  The salt mounts were really cool, the little reflections we saw were unreal, the sky was crystal clear and it was just a unique experience to pick up a lump of salt from the ground and stick it in your mouth!!!  Like Machu Picchu, pictures cannot do it justice, you have to see it with your own eyes!

On the way, we also saw llamas, vicuñas (funny looking deers), flamingos, vizcachas (wild desert rabbit) and foxes (one got really close to me which was real cool).  The scenery was just amazing - beautiful valleys, colorful desert, stunning rock formations and so on.

The only negative thing about Uyuni and the 3-day trip was that it was bloody freezing.  It was COLD but well worth it because the whole experience was unique and it was an easy way for us to end our trip in San Pedro de Atacama in Chile.  We got a post-dated stamp from the Bolivian immigration back in Uyuni and it took about 5 seconds.  So when we crossed the Bolivia-Chile border, it was really easy.

We are now in San Pedro and the 6,006m Mount Sairecabur is our ultimate goal!!!

Sucre - the White City of Bolivia

Sucre, the White City of Bolivia. It´s a pretty little city, with lovely white and historical buildings.  It´s so different from La Paz, from people, to structures to what to do...

The rocks of Cal Orck'o (dinosaur footprints) date back to about 68 million years.  Although we couldn´t see the footprints up close, it was just incredible to see them.  We also visited the Casa de la Libertad, the famous Chapel of the Virgen de Guadalupe (which was painted in 1601 and covered with jewels), the Cathedral and the local markets for delicious local food.

You can pretty much stroll around the city aimlessly because it´s just so pretty and the people are really friendly.

Then, we did a 2-day Maragua Crater Trek with Condor Trekkers which was excellent.  The scenery was stunning, the trek was really fun as you get the river, stone, mud, sand and the whole package!  Also, the trek goes up and down, up and down so you never feel bored. 

We were close to doing the 3-day trek because it´s the same as the 2-day trek except that you also get to visit the dinosaur prints UP CLOSE!  Unlike in the city, where you can only look at it from far away, apparently you can literally sit in the dinosaur print!!!  However, you have to carry your own bag, like sleeping bag, tent, food, snack, clothes (it´s cold) etc...and you can´t hire a donkey, thus, in the end, we chose to do the 2-day trek instead.  But if you are fit enough, you should do the 3-day trek.  Where else in the world can you sit in a dinosaur footprint?

If you are in Sucre and want to do a trek, I highly recommend Condor Trekkers (http://www.condortrekkers.org/). It is a non-profit organization and all their proceeds support local children and communities in need.  They are well organized, the guides are very professional, the volunteers are fantastic, they feed you till you explode, they provide all equipments you need like backpacks, sleeping bags etc and it´s all included in the price already, no hidden costs.

It was really nice to see how our guide (Henry) gave snacks and stuff to little kids throughout our journey.  The experience was superb. It´s like doing a trek and giving to charity at the same time.  You won´t regret it, I promise.

One other thing, it was rather unbelievable to learn that one of the villages we passed only had electricity in 2011!!! This is one of the reasons why I love traveling, it really makes you humble.  It reminds you how you shouldn´t take electricity, clean water, hot shower or a proper loo for granted.

I see so many kids here play with plastic bags and bottles from the streets...and at home in Hong Kong, many parents dress their kids in Ralph Lauren! It reminds me how lucky I am and that there is so much more to life than just money and climbing up the company ladder.

We will be heading off to Uyuni tomorrow, it´s going to be amazing!!! I can´t wait.

Arequipa - The White City

Arequipa is one of the prettiest cities I've ever seen - cobblestone streets, colonial buildings, historical sites, majestic mountains, stunning canyons, friendly locals and 'Zig Zag' the best cuisine in Peru (in my opinion).

We did the 2 day / 1 night Colca Trek. The Colca Canyon is the world's deepest canyon, after the Tsangpo in China. We saw a lot of massive condors - which has the largest wingspan (at 3.2 m or 10.5 ft) of any land bird, according to Wikipedia. They were just magnificent to watch.

As for the trek itself, the scenery was beautiful but the trek was average. We spent the first day walking on a really dusty trail and your face, nostrils, clothes are just covered in shit.

The second day was more fun. We started walking at 5am for 2 and a half hours, it was just a constant uphill of 1,200m. It was a bitch but like our previous tracks, it's very rewarding.

On our way back to Arequipa, we went to the hot springs which was much nicer than the ones in Aguas Calientes, as it's bigger, cleaner and quieter.

The next day, we just strolled around the beautiful city center of Arequipa. The gorgeous white Cathedral was worth a visit and you definitely don't want to miss the Monasterio de Santa Catalina, which is like a city within the city with houses, alleys and gardens inside the stoned walls.

We were going to do the Chachani trek, which is the world's easiest 6,000m trek and we were all psyched up for it all day and night. But in the end, the agency (most expensive in town) wasn't able to provide us with proper equipments (there were holes in the boots, paper thin jacket for the snow, 'ski pants' as thick as my hiking pants etc), so we cancelled and got a refund.

It sucks because we were so ready for it but shit happens. In the end, we treated ourselves to Zig Zag, the best restaurant in Peru! Ostrich carpaccio, excellent trilogy of meat (alpaca, beef and pork) and delicious passion fruit dessert.

Well, we have done everything we wanted to do in Peru, so we are heading off to Bolivia tonight, I have been snooping around peoples facebook photos of Bolivia and they look awesome!!! So I can't wait, although the night bus journey and getting through the Bolivian border will not be fun ;)

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Machu Picchu - The Lost City of the Incas

 

We flew into Cusco from Lima and did a day trip to the Sacred Valley before our 5-day trek to Machu Picchu.

On the first day, I underestimated what was waiting for me and I cursed through the 10-hour trek. I didn't take a single photo as I was just trying to make it to the camp in one piece!!! I finally calmed down when I started meeting other people from our group and I learnt to laugh again.

The second day, as expected, was a bitch! It was a constant uphill to 4,600m altitude. Again, I had no interest in the scenery until I reached the top alive. On my way back down, I realized I was surrounded by a beautiful scenery and I became stronger through the afternoon.

The third and fourth day were really easy, 5-hour trek each day. We ended the fourth day in Aguas Calientes where some of our group went to the hot spring which was pretty fun...and strange. Haha...everyone there probably hadn't had a bath for over 3 days but no one cared. It was a blast!

The fifth day was one of the most unforgettable days of my life. We got up at 4am and had to race up 2,500 steps (400m up) in order to get a pass to go to Wayna Picchu (there is a daily limit of only 200 people at 7am and 200 people at 10am).

It was harder than the previous 4-day treks and the 4,750m Santa Cruz trek because there was nothing other than darkness and 2 or 3 steps ahead of you. It was still dark and we had to trek with a head light. You know it's game over once you stop as there were tons of people behind you trying to get your spot.

I was really concerned with Rupert as he was really struggling. I, surprisingly, was getting stronger and stronger as we ascended. I still don't understand how I did it but I'm very proud of myself for achieving this.

I had tears in my eyes when we reached the top and were one of the first 200 to be there. I never thought I would make it and this had made me believe in myself more.

Machu Picchu was stunning. It's located in the middle of nowhere and its magnificent stonework and craftsmanship were just unreal. It was worth the all the hardwork, tears and sweat. No words or pictures can describe Machu Picchu. You have to be there to experience it. The Lost City of the Incas should lives up to it's title as the New Seven Wonders of the World.

To top such crazy day up, we went back in town only to realize our agency hadn't reserve Rup and my train ticket. No one know who to call to solve the problem and we were really stressed out!!! What made things worse was no one spoke English and no one gave a shit.

Thanks to my 3 angels - Menno, Tobias and Sven - who helped us translate, ran around from hostal to hostal and to the train station with their bloody backpacks! Somehow, we finally were able to get on a later train on the same night.

Thus, all in all, the 5-day trek to Machu Picchu was very adventurous, fun, challenging and rewarding. It was one of the most memorable experience of my life.

Huaraz, Peru - Trekking to 4,750m alttitude

The first day in Huaraz, we visited Chavin, a 3,000-year-old temple next to a small village. It's an impressive temple built from stone with a maze of tunnels, chambers and alleys that you can explore (really cool stuff).

We rested for a day before we embarked on our 4-day Santa Cruz trek in the mountain range of Cordilleras Blanca, which is the second highest mountain range after the Himalayas.

Every day, we woke up at 6am and would start trekking by 7am. It's the hardest thing I have ever done. I recently blogged about the hard work required for surfing, well it's nothing comparing to trekking to 4,750m altitude.

It's one of the best things I have ever done in my life.

I was worried about not being able to shower or wash my hair fo 4 days, but that was the last thing on my mind. The weather was so unpredictable that one moment, it's sunny, another it's pouring, then it's hot, then it's cold.

You could be trekking in your T-shirt during the day and you would be sleeping with your ski pants, thermos, beanie, gloves and fleeces at night.

Every step upward required so much strength and determination at such high altitude.

Breathing was one thing, hanging on to dear life was another. There were points when I thought I wasn't going to make it. But thanks to my husband who was my motivational angel and a great team of people we were trekking with, I finally made it.

And once you open your eyes and see what's around you rather than worrying about a shower, the coldness and wetness, fatigue or having a congested nose, it was all worth it.

The beautiful scenery of snow capped mountains, icy water falls, bright and colorful flowers, horses eating grass next to you, cows and donkeys strolling around, gorgeous valleys, river, lakes, trekking on peddles, stones, grass and mud, was just unbelievable.

We saw the Artesonraju which was said to be the Paramount Picture logo! Now that's amazing in itself.

I'm very proud of myself for doing this 4-day trek to 4,750m altitude. It's one of my biggest achievements in life and something I will share with my children.